de Buyer Vs. Matfer: A Cook’s Quest For The Perfect Carbon Steel Pan

I’m standing in my kitchen, spatula in hand, ready to tackle a new recipe, but my old skillet’s giving me grief. That’s when I realized I needed a serious upgrade. After scouring forums and chef reviews, I narrowed it down to two heavyweights: de Buyer and Matfer Bourgeat.

Both are French, both make killer carbon steel pans, but which one’s right for me—and you? In this article, I’ll break down their pros, cons, and key features to help us decide, using my own cooking experiments and a pinch of research.

A Brief Comparison Table

This table gives you the quick scoop, but let’s unpack the details to see what these pans are really about.

de Buyer: The French Classic With A Modern Twist

I started with de Buyer’s Mineral B Pro, a 10-inch carbon steel pan that arrived with a shiny beeswax coating.

The first thing I noticed?

It’s hefty—about 4.4 pounds—but not cast-iron heavy.

The stainless steel handle screamed “pro kitchen,” and I loved that it’s oven-safe up to 400°F.

Here’s what I found after cooking with it for a month.

Pros of de Buyer Mineral B Pro

• Exceptional Heat Distribution: Cooking a ribeye in the Mineral B Pro was a revelation. The 2.5–3 mm thick carbon steel delivered a perfectly even, golden crust without any hot spots, making it ideal for searing or frying. It holds heat so well I could cook at lower settings and still get pro-level results.
• Oven-Safe Stainless Steel Handle: The handle is a game-changer. I slid a frittata into a 375°F oven, and the stainless steel stayed cool on the stovetop while handling high oven temps effortlessly. It’s perfect for recipes that transition from stove to oven, like roasts or baked dishes.
• Beeswax Coating for Easy Seasoning: The pan arrived with a natural beeswax layer that simplified the initial seasoning process. After a quick scrub, some oil, and 10 minutes on the stove, it was ready to cook. This eco-friendly touch reduced the usual carbon steel seasoning hassle.
• Built to Last: Durability is no joke here. I clumsily dropped the pan onto my tile floor, and it didn’t even scratch. This 99% iron carbon steel beast feels like it could outlive me, making it a worthy heirloom for future generations.
• Wide Range of Sizes: de Buyer offers pans from 8 to 12.6 inches, giving me options for everything from a single egg to a family-sized stir-fry. The 10-inch I tested was versatile, but I’m eyeing the 12-inch for bigger meals.

Cons of de Buyer Mineral B Pro

• Premium Price Tag: At $90–$110 for a 10-inch pan, it’s a splurge. I hesitated at checkout, wondering if it was worth it. While the quality eventually won me over, the cost might sting for budget-conscious cooks.
• Heavier Than Expected: Weighing 4.4 pounds, it’s not as light as I’d hoped. After 20 minutes of flipping pancakes, my wrist was begging for a break. It’s manageable but not ideal for those who prefer lightweight cookware.
• Seasoning Requires Care: Maintaining the nonstick surface takes effort. I made the rookie mistake of leaving it wet overnight, and rust spots appeared by morning. Regular oiling and immediate drying are non-negotiable to keep it pristine.
• Slippery Handle Grip: The stainless steel handle looks sleek but gets slippery with oily hands. I found myself gripping it tightly during quick flips, which was less comfortable than I’d like. A textured grip would’ve been a nice touch.

Key Features That Stood Out

The Mineral B Pro’s sloped edges made tossing veggies a dream, and the thick base ensured even browning. The beeswax coating was a thoughtful touch, cutting down on the seasoning hassle.

I also appreciated the “Pro” line’s stainless handle over the classic Mineral B’s iron one—it’s easier to clean and doesn’t get as hot. de Buyer’s been making these in France since 1830, and you can feel the craftsmanship.

Matfer Bourgeat: The Chef’s Workhorse

Next up was Matfer Bourgeat’s Black Steel pan, also 10-inch. It arrived pre-seasoned, which was a relief since I was itching to cook. At 4.2 pounds, it’s slightly lighter than de Buyer, and the riveted iron handle gave it a rustic vibe.

Here’s how it held up in my kitchen.

Pros of Matfer Bourgeat Black Steel

• Wallet-Friendly Price: At $70–$90 for a 10-inch pan, Matfer’s pan feels like a steal. I didn’t have to think twice about buying it, and the performance rivals pricier options, making it a great entry point for carbon steel newbies.
• Pre-Seasoned Convenience: Right out of the box, I fried an egg with minimal sticking. The pre-seasoned surface isn’t perfect, but it saved me the initial seasoning step, letting me cook sooner. It’s a thoughtful feature for busy cooks.
• Slightly Lighter Build: At 4.2 pounds, it’s a tad lighter than de Buyer’s pan. I flipped crepes and tossed veggies with ease, and my wrist didn’t complain. It’s a small but noticeable difference for longer cooking sessions.
• Stovetop Searing Star: The 2–3 mm thickness heats up fast, giving my pork chops a killer crust in minutes. It’s designed for high-heat stovetop cooking, and it delivers consistent results for frying, searing, or sautéing.
• Authentic French Craftsmanship: Made in France with over 200 years of expertise, Matfer’s pan feels like a piece of culinary history. The riveted iron handle and sturdy build give it a rugged, professional vibe I appreciated.

Cons of Matfer Bourgeat Black Steel

• Not Oven-Safe: The iron handle isn’t built for oven use, which was a bummer. I had to transfer a half-cooked roast to another pan, adding extra cleanup. This limits its versatility for recipes requiring oven finishing.
• Ongoing Seasoning Maintenance: Despite being pre-seasoned, the pan still needs regular care. I got lazy with drying once, and rust appeared by the next day. Like any carbon steel, it demands consistent oiling to stay nonstick.
• Hot Iron Handle: The riveted iron handle conducts heat quickly. I burned my hand during a quick sear, forgetting to grab a towel. It’s manageable with caution, but it’s less user-friendly than a cooler handle.
• Limited Size Variety: Matfer’s size range (9.5 to 12.5 inches) is decent but narrower than de Buyer’s. I wanted an 8-inch for small tasks, but no luck. It’s not a dealbreaker, but more options would’ve been nice.

Key Features That Impressed

Matfer’s pan has a slightly shallower slope than de Buyer’s, which I found perfect for searing but less ideal for tossing. The pre-seasoning saved me time, though it wasn’t as nonstick as I’d hoped initially.

The riveted iron handle feels sturdy, and the pan’s 2–3 mm thickness delivers consistent heat. Matfer’s focus on professional kitchens shows—it’s a no-frills pan built for performance.

How de Buyer And Matfer Stack Up?

Now that I’ve cooked with both, let’s compare them across key factors to see which pan might suit your kitchen.

• Performance on the Stove: Both pans excel at high-heat cooking. I tested them with a classic French omelette, and de Buyer’s thicker base gave me a touch more control over browning. Matfer’s slightly thinner profile heated up faster, which was great for quick sears but trickier for delicate dishes. If you’re into precision, de Buyer edges out; for speed, Matfer’s your pick.
• Seasoning and Maintenance: Seasoning carbon steel is like raising a Tamagotchi—you’ve got to nurture it. de Buyer’s beeswax coating made the first seasoning session easier, but both pans demand regular oiling and drying to prevent rust. Matfer’s pre-seasoning is convenient, but I still had to build up the nonstick surface over time. Neither wins here; it’s a tie that depends on your patience.
• Versatility: de Buyer’s oven-safe handle makes it more versatile. I loved popping it in the oven for cornbread or finishing a steak. Matfer’s stovetop-only design limits it to frying, searing, or sautéing. If you’re a one-pan warrior, de Buyer’s the better bet.
• Price and Value: Matfer’s lower price ($70–$90) makes it tempting, especially for beginners. de Buyer’s $90–$110 feels steep, but the oven-safe handle and premium build justify it if you cook often. For budget-conscious cooks, Matfer’s the winner; for long-term investment, de Buyer shines.
• Aesthetics and Feel: This one’s subjective, but de Buyer’s sleek stainless handle looks modern and feels pro. Matfer’s iron handle has a rugged charm but gets hot and rusty if neglected. I leaned toward de Buyer’s polished vibe, but Matfer’s rustic look might appeal to traditionalists.

My Cooking Experiments: Real-World Insights

To get a feel for these pans, I cooked the same dishes in both: a seared steak, a veggie stir-fry, and a sunny-side-up egg. The steak test showed both pans could deliver a crusty exterior, but de Buyer’s heat retention kept the meat juicier.

The stir-fry highlighted de Buyer’s sloped edges, which made tossing easier, while Matfer’s shallower sides caused some spillage. The egg test was trickier—neither was truly nonstick out of the gate, but after a few weeks of seasoning, de Buyer’s surface felt smoother.

I also tried baking cornbread in de Buyer (since Matfer can’t go in the oven). The result was a crispy, golden crust that slid out effortlessly. Matfer held its own on the stovetop, though, with faster heat-up times for quick meals.

These tests showed me that both pans are stellar, but your cooking style matters.

Who Are These Pans For?

After weeks of cooking, I realized each pan suits different cooks. de Buyer’s Mineral B Pro is ideal for home chefs who want a versatile, oven-ready pan and don’t mind the price. It’s perfect if you love experimenting with recipes that go from stove to oven.

Matfer’s Black Steel is great for budget-conscious cooks or those focused on stovetop classics like steaks or stir-fries. It’s also a solid choice for beginners who want a pre-seasoned pan to ease into carbon steel.

What Makes Them Tick?

From a technical standpoint, both pans leverage carbon steel’s unique properties: high heat conductivity, durability, and a naturally nonstick surface when seasoned.

de Buyer’s thicker base (2.5–3 mm) gives it an edge in heat retention, making it less prone to temperature swings.

Matfer’s slightly thinner build (2–3 mm) heats up faster but can be less forgiving with delicate foods.

The handle design is a key differentiator—de Buyer’s stainless steel is ergonomic and oven-safe, while Matfer’s iron is traditional but less practical.

Both brands adhere to French manufacturing standards, ensuring quality. de Buyer’s beeswax coating aligns with eco-conscious trends, while Matfer’s pre-seasoning caters to convenience. Price-wise, Matfer’s lower cost reflects its simpler design, but de Buyer’s premium features justify the splurge for serious cooks.

FAQ: Quick Answers To Common Questions

Conclusion: Which Pan Wins for You?

So, here we are, you and I, staring down two French carbon steel titans. If I had to pick, I’d lean toward de Buyer’s Mineral B Pro for its oven-safe handle and slick design—it’s become my go-to for everything from eggs to roasts.

But Matfer’s Black Steel is no slouch, especially if you’re watching your budget or stick to stovetop cooking. Your choice depends on your kitchen habits: versatility and premium build with de Buyer, or affordability and simplicity with Matfer.

Grab the one that feels right, and let’s get cooking.